Mold Removal – Two Lies and One Truth

We hear lies all of the time. Many times we hear lies that were told to clients by other contractors or even something they “heard on the internet.”

LIE 1 – “BLACK Mold is Toxic Mold”

There are over 100,000 species of mold. None of these 100,000 species can be identified simply by color. The only way to identify the type of mold that is present is to test it. This is done by taking a sample and sending it to a lab for identification. So just because it is black, does not mean it’s toxic.

What is toxic mold?

Mold affects everyone differently, so any mold could be “toxic” to some people. Most often when people talk about toxic mold, they are usually referring to Stachybotrys. Stachybotrys is most commonly found in flood-damaged buildings and in order for it to grow and thrive, it needs a constant water source. It is most often found in water damage situations that are:

1) not cleaned up quickly enough (within 24-48 hours);
2) are not cleaned up and dried out properly; or
3) water damage containing sewage contamination.

If you call a company to inspect or assess a mold issue in your home and they use the phrase “BLACK MOLD” more than once, they are probably trying to scare you. They may be trying to “motivate” you to hire them on the spot or they may be attempting to use fear to increase their price. You should probably ask them to leave.

Stachybotrys is less common than many other species you are likely to find in your home. If you have mold (of any color) and you are concerned — you can certainly have it tested to find out what kind of mold it is, but it’s probably best to just have it removed by a professional. Then you don’t have to worry about what kind it is, because it will be GONE!

EPA – “In most cases, if visible mold growth is present, sampling is unnecessary.”

LIE 2 – “Mold Remediation is Too Expensive”

Every job is different and every customer situation is different, so cost is relative. Some price points are more expensive to some than they are to others. Let’s take a look at a possible scenario, imagine getting three proposals for a mold job in your home…

Your first proposal is from a large national company certified for mold and reconstruction. Their representative suggests ripping out all building materials with mold and replacing them with new materials – COST $27,000….

Your second proposal is from a handyman who suggests spraying bleach (or some other liquid) on the mold to kill it and removing and replacing some insulation, and painting over the affected areas – COST $1,800…

Your final proposal is from a certified mold remediator who proposes setting up containment to avoid cross-contamination, removing the mold from the building materials with an anti-microbial wipe, and HEPA vacuuming surfaces before and after wiping. Removing building materials only if they cannot be cleaned – COST $4,800.

That’s a W-I-D-E range.

Let’s take a closer look at the DIFFERENCES in each approach and evaluate which one would be most cost effective.

Many of the larger national companies try to rip out as many materials as they can because you are also hiring them to replace the removed materials – obviously this comes at a higher cost to you. But in some circumstances the mold can be cleaned and removed without removing the building materials themselves.

The handyman probably isn’t certified to deal with mold. That means there’s a lot that can go wrong…if he doesn’t follow proper protocol (there actually is one!) he may cross-contaminate other areas of your home or actually make the mold worse by spraying bleach on it (see blog post). Additionally, while he may have insurance, he probably doesn’t carry the additional coverage that is required for removing mold and if he messes up, that gap in coverage leaves YOU holding the bag.

I admit, we’re the $4,800 company. That sounds like a lot of money to many people, especially when most insurance companies don’t cover mold (although there are some exceptions). Mold removal standards include an important process to follow using negative pressure, area containment, air scrubbers, HEPA vacuums, and a detail-oriented cleaning — including pipes and wires, inside light fixtures, and many other areas that untrained personnel will likely miss. When you consider that it will be done correctly and safely the first time, without tearing your home apart (only to rebuild it) — in comparison, it’s pretty reasonable.

Pricing Variables to Consider – Check Our Mold Pricing Page

We believe no one deserves to live in fear of their home making them sick – at Reliable we help people find peace of mind by restoring the health and safety of their home after water, fire, and mold damage.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Why does my basement flood even when it isn't raining?

In Eastern CT, this is usually due to a rising water table. Even without active rain, the ground can remain saturated from previous storms or snowmelt, pushing water up through the "cove joint" where your floor meets the wall.

2. Is a damp crawl space as bad as a flooded basement?

Yes. Moisture in a crawl space rises into your home through "the stack effect," bringing mold spores and musty odors with it. It can also cause the wooden support structures of your home to rot over time.

3. Will my homeowner's insurance cover basement flooding?

Standard policies often cover "sudden and accidental" water damage like a burst pipe, but they frequently exclude "seepage" or "groundwater flooding" unless you have a specific flood insurance rider. Always check your policy or speak with your agent.

4. How can I tell if my sump pump is failing?

If you hear it running constantly but the water level isn't dropping, or if it makes a loud grinding noise, it may be reaching the end of its life. We recommend testing your pump every spring by pouring a bucket of water into the basin.

5. What is hydrostatic pressure?

It is the pressure exerted by a fluid due to gravity. When the soil around your foundation becomes saturated with rain or snowmelt, the weight of that water pushes against your walls, finding every tiny crack to enter your home.

6. Can I just use a dehumidifier to fix the problem?

A dehumidifier is a great tool for managing humidity, but it is not a solution for active liquid water entering your home. You must first stop the source of the water before a dehumidifier can be effective.

7. How do I stop water from coming in through foundation cracks?

While some small cracks can be sealed from the inside, the best approach is often a combination of exterior drainage improvements (like extending downspouts) and interior drainage systems that channel the water to a sump pump.